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Last season was perfect from the climatic point of view: abundant winter rains, no late frost and few downy mildew attacks, perfectly controlled with only 6 Bordeaux mixture sprayings. The powdery mildew attacks on the few hectares of Chardonnay were more aggressive, but completely controlled thanks to our experience. The grapes were almost entirely hand-picked, with the exception of a part of Merlot, despite the increasing difficulty in finding labour. I partecipate daily in the hand-picking of the grapes and allow myself to underline the great importance of hand-picking in order to obtain a product of excellence. The usual procedure is this: the grapes are harvested in wide, shallow 3kg buckets, from here they are poured into a 400kg steel container which, as soon as it is full, immediately transfers the grapes into the cellar for the pressing. At the moment of the pouring I personally carry out checks on the clusters and eliminate the unsuitable ones, explaining to the picker, so that in few days even the less expert vintagers are able to select the grapes to pick.
The cluster selection is not always necessary in the vineyards planned for high quality; the reduced manuring of the land reduces the production of shoots and leaves to the essentials, thus increasing the cluster's ventilation and illumination and limiting the onset of fungal diseases. For the same reasons the low production of grapes favours an advanced and uniform ripening and the clusters are "spread out" (less compact, less contact between the berries and a greater ventilation) with less risk of mould. If we add to this the fact that we are in a very favourable area for wine production and the use of suitable varieties (better still if they are autochthonous such as Grechetto, Procanico and Montepulciano), I have expounded the principles that are essential in organic growing, which is the consequence of a certain way of operating and cannot be the fruit of a technique established at a later date. Last week we put together the mass to form the new wines that will be gradually bottled: I assure you that we have to do with the fruits of a fabulous vintage! We have rejoiced at the magnificent aromas and tastes in a collection of clean and elegant wines. Grechetto is the top of the class once again, and offers a vast range of nuances produced by the different altitude, age and harvest time of the vineyards. The red grapes, all picked when healthy and well-ripened, have produced a great Magone in which the aromas are already evident, and we will have fine tannins in all the reds. Thanks
to the autumn, with its morning mists, sun and north wind following
one after the other, we will have an excellent and abundant "Muffo
2006" (26hl.)! * the Orvieto and the first batch of Poggio della Costa 2006 will be bottled at the end of February; * in
March we will bottle the Latour a Civitella
2005 which will be available only at the end of summer (while the
2004 vintage is still available), and the Nenfro
2005 which will be aged for 12 months (there is still a little 2003
and the 2004 vintage will be available in March), and the Magone
2005 which will be aged for 12 months (the 2004 is available).
The most important novelties of this campaign are two, in the first case - as is our habit - we are aimimg at the safeguard of both the product and the consumer, in the second, at amazing you with our special effects! We have
adopted the screw tap in the packaging: after a 3 year trial period
we are proud to propose the alternative between the classic cork and
the screw tap for Orvieto DOC and Orvieto Tragugnano, Poggio della
Costa, Civitella Rosso and Latour a Civitella. Furthermore, for those who still require the product with the cork, we are trying to limit any possible damage by following the advice of a Portuguese firm specialized in preventive quality-control. This practice can however, even in their opinion, only limit - and not eliminate - the well-known problems of cork. In light of this, we have decided to no longer accept disputes about corkiness in the batches ordered with cork. The other sensational novelty is the imminent presentation of a Rosé Wine based on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, to sip by the swimming pool next summer with a dish of pasta quills with olive oil, basil and tomatoes from the garden. The new wine is still nameless: we are elaborating suitable appellatives for this new creature (some ideas are already maturing), but if you have any suggestions we will be happy - and thankful - to receive them. To finish, two words about the reviews and awards from the press and various guides. To introduce this topic I must go back to the end of July when, as is the custom, the tasting of great whites was held in our historical cellar; this year, with the help of Gianni Fabrizio, Gian Domenico Negro, Giuseppe and Domenico, we decided to compare the 1996 and 2000 Latour a Civitella and Poggio della Costa with the most famous European wines of the same year.
I feel I ought to tell you that the event was only possible thanks to the friendship and devotion of our excellent Gianni Fabrizio who, as always, dedicated much time and talent to find the wines on the list that you will see further on.
Our tastings allowed us to discover remarkable perfumes and tastes - at times unimaginable in wine - and to widen our academic and sensorial knowledge thanks to the encyclopedic culture of Gianni, who presented each wine and inserted it in its own environment without neglecting to illustrate the producer's personality to us. You will have already read about the behaviour of our Grechettos in magazines and guides: we are satisfied and, to be frank, surprised: it is thanks to Grechetto that we can fly high. Coming back to earth, you can find the complete list of the pages of the various guides that mention us. I was particularly pleased with Gambero Rosso-Slow Food's comments for the three glasses awarded to Latour a Civitella, and the five bunches to the Latour a Civitella 1996 vintage from Bibenda (with Daniela Scobogna's affectionate and sharp notes), which acknowledge what we are trying to do in our summer tastings. The reviews of International Wine Challenge and Decanter are also encouraging. Last,
but not less important, the ackowledgements as organic grape producers
and products.
2006
HARVEST With
our enologist Giandomenico Negro's visit today we can say that the
2006 harvest has finished, not only the grape harvest but with this
term we include all cellar jobs, starting from the grape picking through
to the final drawing off of the new wines. THE WHITE WINES Sometimes if a vintage is good you see it in the simpler wines which have a fragility that expresses good potential, this is so for the VERDELLO and the PROCANICO, two pleasant wines, floral and fresh the first, well-balanced the second. As usual the GRECHETTO is the most fascinating. The history of our winery is concentrated in the 5 versions that currently share the cellar, from the choice of the land to the clonal selection and the research for the most suitable vinifications. They are shades of the same colour that will design the new 2006 wines. 3 come from the seven hectares of the Poggio della Costa vineyard: the highest part, planted in '70, is fine and slightly tannic, a typical grechetto characteristic, the lowest part, the youngest and most exposed to the east, is robust and colourful, the central part, the historical Poggio della Costa vineyard, is the most elegant and complex. The other 2 versions come from the Colle vineyard, a land that is richer than the first, with more evident citrus notes accompanied by a hardness on the palate.
THE RED WINES In the red wines the importance of the year is evident in a similar way. The MERLOT, above all, is a powerful and complex wine both in the more immediate Civitella Rosso version and in the Nenfro aged version. The harvest was delayed a few days to allow the grapes time to acquire fragrances and softness, and the compromise reached seems to indicate a direction for the future. The PINOT NERO keeps itself in line with the other vintages, very similar to 2004, and is already ageing in barriques where it will remain for the whole of next year. The MONTEPULCIANO is, on the other hand, a little further behind due to its harvest time (October 11th and 12th) and to macerations that were longer than in the past years, it is very concentrated and a long period of maturation in wood will be important. THE MUFFO The grapes
are there, laid out on
the straw mats under the shelter, no refrigerators or forced ventilation,
just the cold humidity of the morning and the warmth of the autumn
sun. The wilting advances regularly at the moment, but judging on
the concentration attained, the time of pressing does not seem too
far away, we are waiting patiently..
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